Vinyl Shops and Old Turkish Records

It smells faintly of dust and old cardboard as I stroll through the stacks of records in Deform Music. The floorboards squeak beneath my feet as I go from one row to the next. I am searching for something specific – one record. I can feel my mind focusing  as my hands touch each sleeve and my eyes quickly glance at the artists. My heart speeds up when I find what I am looking for: an LP by Selda Bağcan. This second-hand vinyl record contains Turkish psychedelic rock and a glimpse into ’70s Turkey.

Vinyl records may be a thing of the past, but nostalgia lasts forever. The feeling of owning a vinyl record never wears off for me because there’s a certain physical investment involved. I can see, feel, and touch the record with my own hands instead of reading words that appear on my computer screen. As the crackle of the radio begins, I become more engaged and the record feels even more real. Listening to music on a record player is an entirely different experience to listening to an MP3 or CD even. You need a willingness to be patient when searching for new records and it never hurts to have a group of friends surrounding you as you sit back and soak up the melody.

Vinyl records changed society, and I’m not just talking about Western society.

Turkey has its own music history dating back thousands of years, but the record scene also made its mark on Turkish musical history. The 1970s can be described as a time for Turkish psychedelic artists in the age of funk and rock fusion. Some of Turkey’s most popular music icons thrived in this decade. Some of my favorites include:

Photo Credit: İklim Arsiya

Barış Manço was a Turkish singer, poet and TV celebrity. His ’70s Anatolian psychedelic funk and meaningful lyrics still resonate with Turks across the country.

The superstar, Ajda Pekkan, is not only known in Turkey, but in France and Germany with her first albums being in translated into different languages. She is Turkey’s first pop singer and represented Turkey at the Eurovision Contest in 1980.

My personal favorite Turkish psychedelic rock artist is Selda Bağcan. Her tunes remind me of Jimi Hendrix, with electrifying chords on the guitar.

Other famous classical Turkish artists include Zeki Mürenthe most famous Turkish singer that you’re likely to hear played if you go to a meyhane restaurant, and Orhan Gencebay, a multi-instrumentalist singer, director, and actor.

If you’re searching for modern Turkish pop artists, some of the most famous include Sezen AksuIbrahim Tatlises, and the hugely popular Tarkan. Sezen Aksu, known as the Queen of Turkish pop, has sold over 40 million albums worldwide. Ibrahim Tatlises is a Turkish-Arabic singer with Kurdish origins. He was active throughout the ’80s and had an acting career in addition to singing. Tarzan Tevetoğlu, aka Tarkan, is the Prince of Pop in Turkish music culture. He is widely popular with young people and frequently uses romantic themes in his songs. The German born pop-star has international recognition, though he sings solely in Turkish.

Photo Credit: Elion Paz

Whenever I’m hunting for souvenirs, I always try to find something that speaks to a city’s true culture and not its tourism. Leaving Istanbul with an old school vinyl record will leave you feeling unique and on a high that no keychain or Turkish lamp can achieve. It’s a piece of memorabilia that identifies with Turkish people, Turkish music.

Vinyl Shops in Istanbul:

Analog Kültür offers an intimate space to record search to your heart’s desire. This small boutique is located in Galata and has a great variety of contemporary and some classic Turkish records. It also offers an escape off of the busy street.

Deform Muzik sells second hand records and is located in the quaint district of Çukurcuma. It stocks diverse range of genres, including 50s and 60s soul, funk or rock as well as Turkish and international records.

Sitting right in Tünel Square, Lale Plak has a large stock of Turkish psychedelic music such as Barış Manço and  Ajda Pekkan. The store also sells new Turkish and international records.

Mandala Müzik Evi is hidden inside the Aslıhan Pasajı in Galatasaray. Mandala’s stock focuses on 1970s music, both Turkish and foreign.

Though Mono Plak has a wide variety of Eastern and Western classics and unique records. The store also specialises in folk, rock, jazz, and vintage Turkish music. It is located in Çukurcuma near Museum of the Innocence.

Opus 3A is in Cihangir and focuses on jazz, as well as legendary Turkish 70s pop icons with some rock and classical music.

Vintage Records has a vast collection of second-hand LPs from Turkish pop/rock of the 60s and 70s to English-language classic rock. The Kadıköy store also sells musical equipment.

Located on the basement level of the passageway Akmar Pasajı in Kadıköy, Zihni Müzik has one of the biggest collections of LPs in Istanbul. The stock offers over 9,000 records with most being second-hand.

Zoltan Records sells a variety of records but focuses on Turkish psychedelic, while also selling artwork. The store is located in Kadıköy.

Look out for the album listening events held at Kontraplak. This hip Galatasary record store nestles in amongst the bars, restaurants and boutiques of Yeniçarşı Caddesi.

Original Posting on Istanbul Tour Studios.

Turkish Market Shopping & Cooking Culture

If you have ever been to a weekly pazar (market) in Istanbul, you’ll know it is nothing like the neat-aisled Migros or Şok markets on the corner of your street. Pazars have an authentic feel with their sheet-covered streets, which turn the markets into a kind of sanctuary of fresh food. The hectic shouting of vendors to passersby, children running between stalls, and colorful piles of produce and goods in every direction will leave you mesmerized. I love listening to the calls of the stall keepers “Bir lira! Domates! Kilosu üç lira!” And if you’re lucky, you will hear old men singing Anatolian songs as you hand over your Lira.

Going to the bazaar is the highlight of my Tuesdays.

The smell of fresh produce always puts me in good spirits as I stroll through the long winding street in Emirgan. The best time to go is in the morning when the sun is shining and you’ll have the best choice of vegetables and fruit. Before purchasing anything, I first walk the entire pazar to get a look at the prices as they change every week.  Men and young boys generally work the stalls, but I’ve also seen women filling the plastic buckets with pomegranates and apples. Everything is priced per kilo and I am still surprised every week at how cheap the prices are. You’ll leave the pazar with heavy bags and full pockets. Make sure to bring cash though as your MasterCard is useless here.

Don't miss your chance to experience a local bazaar! Emirgan Bazaar, Sarıyer
Emirgan pazar, Sarıyer

Turks prefer to buy produce that is both seasonal and regional to Turkey. Most of the produce is picked weekly and I can taste the difference between my pazar bananas and those purchased in the supermarket. It’s okay to try free samples throughout the market and you’ll see Turks tasting grapes, cheese, nuts, olives, mandarins, and everything in between. My favorite stalls have giant barrels of olives lining the front and I practice my Turkish conversation skills as I’m offered countless delicious samples.

If you are like me and in the process of learning Turkish, the pazar is a fantastic place to practice. The vendor’s English is limited and some unscrupulous types try to cheat customers if they know you are foreign (always count your change!). It’s best to try and avoid speaking English when paying and try your hand at Turkish instead.

Common Turkish Market Phrases:

  • Kaç Lira?   –  What is the price?How much?
  • Kilosu ne kadar?  –  How much for a kilo?
  • Bir/Iki/Üç kilo.  –  One/two/three kilos.
  • Bunlardan alabilir miyim?  –   May I have some of those?
  • Iyi günler!  – Good day! (Hello and Goodbye)
  • Teşekkürler!  –  Thank you!
Located under a triangular modern dome, the Beşiktaş Fish Market runs everyday. Photo credit: Suheda Aykut
Located under a triangular modern dome, the Beşiktaş Fish Market runs everyday.  Photo credit: Suheda Aykut

Most major pazars in Istanbul operate one day a week and the locals flock from surrounding neighborhoods for the best prices and freshest picks. If you are staying near Taksim, Tarlabaşı Sunday Bazaar is worth visiting. On the Asian side, the Kadıköy market on Tuesday’s boasts the freshest fish in all of İstanbul. And in the old city, Fatih has a huge marke every Wednesday. You can find food pazars in most major neighborhoods in İstanbul.

Once I get my groceries home, my day of cooking begins. Women do most of the cooking in Turkish culture, but that shouldn’t stop you men! A culture shift is occurring with the younger generation of Turkish men knowing their way around the kitchen. Cooking authentic, Turkish food at home is easy, delicious, and a big part of their culture. Turks don’t understand the Western culture of buying processed or frozen food. So, I was determined to learn some recipes, and (top tip alert!) they all begin with a good quality bottle of oil.

Cacık is a refreshing yogurt-based dish. The cold soup is made of yogurt, water, cucumbers, dill, olive oil, and salt. Photo credit: Kişniş Otu

Two of my favorite Turkish recipes are Cacık and zeytinyağlı kereviz. I take advantage of these recipes as you won’t find thick Turkish yogurt and celeriac everywhere else. Both recipes are for beginner cooks and you’ll have great dishes in a short time. When Turks cook they often make more food than necessary and bring extras to thei neighbors. The sharing culture extends even into simple meals in Turkey.

Living with a Turkish family recently I have come to appreciate mealtimes, which are as much a social event as a daily necessity.

We can sit and chat for hours over a meze-style dinner, sharing lots of little plates. I have begun to recognize the odd quirks at the dinner table, like saying Afiyet Olsun (Bon Appetite) before and after a meal! Turks love to know that your stomach is happy at the end of the night, so I make sure to thank my Turkish host mother several times. With gracious company and a relaxed dinner atmosphere, you’ll soon be dining like a true Turk!

Original posting on Istanbul Tour Studios.